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    Brestovac sanatorium

    Deep in the woods of Medvednica, the haunting ruins of Brestovac sanatorium still hold one of Zagreb’s most remarkable stories.

    At the turn of the 19th to the 20th century, tuberculosis was sweeping through Zagreb with no cure in sight. In search of a solution, two young doctors, Ivan Ancel and Milivoj Dežman, decided to build a sanatorium high up on Sljeme, far from the city’s bustle, where the air was fresh and the sun abundant. Opening in 1909, Brestovac was the first of its kind in this part of Europe, dedicated entirely to treating lung disease.
    The location wasn’t chosen by chance – facing south, sheltered from the wind and designed in a style that blended a mountain lodge with an English country house, it was built to heal. Brestovac quickly became a true oasis: modern, spacious, ahead of its time and most importantly, effective. Tuberculosis death rates in Zagreb dropped sharply and word of the sanatorium soon spread beyond Croatia. During both World Wars, it also served as a hospital for wounded soldiers.

    As medicine advanced and tuberculosis became treatable, the sanatorium gradually lost its purpose. It closed its doors in 1969, and today, only the quiet ruins remain, slowly reclaimed by the forest. But if you pause for a moment to listen, you might sense that this place holds more memories than just of illness.

    There’s also a quiet tragic love story here. Milivoj Dežman, a doctor and writer, fell deeply for Ljerka Šram, a celebrated actress and one of the great beauties of Zagreb’s theatre scene. While Dežman was studying in Vienna and Prague, Ljerka married another man. But life has a way of rewriting stories: after her husband fled the city due to an embezzlement scandal, Dežman remained – caring for Ljerka and her son, even though his love was never returned.

    When Ljerka fell ill with tuberculosis, Dežman built the sanatorium in the hope of saving her. But in 1913, she died – right there in his arms.

    Today, little remains of Brestovac – just the overgrown ruins, the forest and the lingering traces of a great lost love. 

     

    How to get there:

    Šestine—Brestovac - trail no. 52 - 2 hours
    Gračani - Brestovac - trail no. 55 - 2:20 h

    See also

    Vila Rebar

    As you wander through the dense forest above Dolje and step onto trail no. 17, you'll eventually stumble upon the quiet crumbling remains of what was once a grand villa.

    Tiger’s Eye

    Near Šumarev grob (the Forester’s Grave), in the heart of Medvednica, hides a small lake that took shape during the Croatian War of Independence.

    Brestovac sanatorium

    Deep in the woods of Medvednica, the haunting ruins of Brestovac sanatorium still hold one of Zagreb’s most remarkable stories.

    Sljeme Tunnel

    On your way up to Sljeme, hidden beneath the green slopes of Medvednica, lies an intriguing piece of history – the old Sljeme tunnel.

    The bats of Sljeme

    As the sun slips behind the peaks of Sljeme and the forest settles into stillness, a new world awakens. Out from the treetops come the quiet flyers of the night – bats, gliding silently through the dusk.

    Horvat’s 500 steps

    Deep in the lush greenery on the northern side of Medvednica lies one of the mountain's most unique spots – Horvat’s 500 steps.