Susedgrad
If you’re in the mood for a short walk that feels like stepping straight into the past, a trip to Susedgrad might be just the thing.
Perched on a hill above the Zagreb neighbourhood of Podsused, this medieval fortress has been keeping watch over the valley below for centuries – and it’s only about ten minutes’ walk to reach it.
Though it may seem quiet and forgotten today, Susedgrad has a long and colourful history. People have lived here since the 9th century, and its golden age came in 1316, when King Charles I of Anjou is believed to have ordered the fortress to be built right here. And it wasn’t just a random spot. Susedgrad stood at the crossroads of important trade routes, right where the Krapina river meets the Sava, on the old road from Zagreb to Slovenia. Back then, it was a key strategic point. Whoever held it had a clear view and strong grip on the city’s western access point. No wonder so many noblemen fought to control it.
Over the centuries, Susedgrad had changed hands many a time but one name in particular still echoes through its story: Franjo Tahi – and not in a good way. His cruelty toward the local peasants was so extreme that he became one of the main sparks behind the infamous Peasants’ Revolt of 1573. Tahi died the following year, not long after the execution of the rebellion’s leader, Matija Gubec. After that, Susedgrad gradually lost its importance, especially once the threat of Ottoman attacks faded. But the locals hadn’t forgotten. In the early 1600s, they stormed the fortress, set it ablaze and left it in ruins. Susedgrad never recovered, and ever since then, nature has slowly but surely taken it back.
Today, the remains are a hauntingly beautiful spot, still echoing with traces of the past. But “ruins” doesn’t quite do it justice. There’s a quiet magic here that lingers in the air. The trail up is peaceful and scenic, winding through the woods to the top, with info boards along the way that bring the history to life. The walls are fragile, so tread carefully – but the view and the sense of stepping into a forgotten world are worth the climb.
If you enjoy a bit of nature, a touch of history and the thrill of discovering hidden treasures close to the city, Susedgrad is bound to win you over.
Trail no. 101 from Podsused – 0:10 h
